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All Posts in rings

March 27, 2012 - No Comments!

Designer Spotlight at Stylebible.ph

Last week we reported that jeweler Kristine Dee collaborated with her good friend and fellow designer Paul Syjuco on Deux Yeux, a two-part jewelry collection that presents their respective takes on ancient court jewelry. Paul focused on the famed jewels of the Mughal dynasty from the mid-1500s to the late 16th century. Their historic jewelry are prominent for their opulent Islamic and Hindu motifs.

"I took inspiration from Mughal jewelry—really far out, priceless, national budget-crippling pieces of the Maharajas that are short of impossible to replicate at present. It was a period of excess and opulence that was really unheard of," Paul tells us.

"I'm sort of a history nerd and I've always been so fascinated by the romance and crazy stories from the old world," he continues. "And so for this collection I really think the old world feel came through, or at least that's what I wanted to bring out, though still keeping with my design aesthetic to streamline. It was a bit of a challenge as most of the period pieces I based my designs on were really huge body pieces and head (turban) gear. But it was an interesting process in that even selection of the types of stones and the cuts and the shapes were considered."

Read on to find out more about Paul as a designer, and don't forget to click on the photo gallery to see his Deux Yeux collection.

What was your point of realization when you knew you wanted to design jewelry?

I'm actually a third generation jeweler. After university, I started out as a stock market analyst and then moved to consumer finance. After a few years doing that, I just really needed to do something that involved some creative output, [but] not to be a designer per se. So I got into one of the family businesses for its potential. I then took up gemology and jewelry design. The latter really helped me put my ideas on paper more fluently, and [helped me] think more three-dimensionally. I didn't really seek to be a designer, but I guess it just happened for me in that it was part of the job as a whole. It's been 11 years since.

How would you define your aesthetic, and your design perspective?

I really think about my pieces. I refine them quite a bit. I like things clean and streamlined. Very deliberate. I could make things glamorous and out there but I think majority of the things I design have a sort of subdued luxury feel to it, which all the more works with my focus on producing wearable pieces.

What do you find is the best thing about designing jewelry?

When I design for somebody or when I do a bespoke piece, it really is the greatest feeling to see them really appreciating the end product and for them to actually wear it.

What kind of jewelry do you love to see a woman wearing?

I like it when women mix it up a bit. Things don't necessarily have to match all the time. So whether it's a rope necklace or a cocktail ring or cuff worn all together, if it doesn't look contrived at all and they're really rocking it, I find that really sexy.

What are you in the mood to see, in terms for jewelry, this season?

More movement, more colors, more wit. Though fine jewelry design tends to focus on being contemporary than seasonal, really.

If you had to pick, what is your favorite piece from Deux Yeux, and why?

The Y-necklace of faceted spinel beads with the lemon topaz and honey quartz drops; I just love the feel of this piece. I find it quietly extravagant. There's a rawness to it but it's still sophisticated. The stones are faceted but retain the general shape of the rough and I can just imagine using diamonds of these sizes back in the day.

What are you looking forward to in the year to come, both personally and professionally?

Maybe go somewhere I've never been to before. Just to open the mind a bit more. To be inspired. I've also been considering opening a new showroom somewhere but things have yet to come together in that aspect.

To view the original article click HERE
Thanks to Jae De Veyra Pickrell.

*Inset are earrings and ring of carved peridot cabochons and diamonds set in yellow gold.

The Deux Yeux collection can be found at Firma, Greenbelt 3 and at Aum Jewels, TriNoma.

September 14, 2011 - 3 comments

Tabletop

I like emerald cut diamonds. But they seem to have more character in larger sizes. They don't sparkle as much as brilliant cut diamonds but possess a more subtle, ice-cube like character, for lack of a better term.  Inset is a bespoke project with components taken from several heirloom pieces and formed into one gorgeous bauble. At the center is about a 2 carat emerald cut diamond, flanked by diamonds of about a carat each. A parallel of pave diamonds go horizontally across and run down the sides of the architecturally inspired ring. When worn, all you see on top of the finger are broad flashes of white light.

May 18, 2011 - No Comments!

An Elaborately Planned Proposal

Butch called me up late in the evening a couple of months ago; excited over plans to propose to his girlfriend. Wanting to pay tribute to her roots in Surigao, he said he wanted the engagement ring to reflect traditional goldsmithing techniques of the region. Because of the abundance of gold in the area, skills were developed in handling the material to produce daggers, masks, ornaments, tooth caps and even sashes (we're talking kilos here), to name a few, made of solid gold during pre-historic times. A dizzying, impressive and important collection of excavated samples can be found at the Ayala Museum's Gold of Ancestors permanent exhibit.

Back to the ring, I didn't want to infuse too many production and design elements as it would look too busy. Also, I wanted the ring to still have that unmistakable handmade look and feel. And so what I primarily wanted to highlight was the granulation technique; those tiny gold beads soldered together to make stippled patterns on sheets of metal so prevalent in Surigao gold crafts. We also incorporated  round brilliant cut diamonds to make it more modern. Set against a background of hand-textured gold.

The proposal itself was coordinated with Inquirer columnist Michael Tan. In which in this attached article shows that "segue" to THE question in the last few paragraphs. In a nutshell, Butch planned a trip around when this article was coming out  (which was May 13, 2011, last week). He booked a weekend for two to Macau. Planned for a specific time of day to go up to this certain lighthouse, nonchalantly show her a newspaper column.... well, you can just read it for yourself.  But as a spoiler...she did say yes.

Why Marry?
Michael Tan

Philippine Daily Inquirer
May 13, 2011

MARRIAGE HAS been on my mind for the past few days, but before I get anyone’s hopes too high let me clarify that this doesn’t mean that I am considering it.

There just was no escaping thinking about marriage because of that royal wedding last month. (Don’t you just love the way people talk about “William and Kate’s wedding,” making it sound like they were your next-door neighbors?)

But even before that royal wedding, one of my former students, an anthropology graduate student without a drop of blue blood, had a wedding-related request which kept percolating in my head. After days of mulling over the request, I thought the only way I could accommodate his request was to write about marriages or, more specifically, why people marry.

Social scientists, especially anthropologists, sociologists and historians, have studied marriages and marriage systems for more than a century now and the studies show surprising similarities across societies.

Alliances

What we do know from all these studies is that marrying for love is fairly recent, and still isn’t universal. For most of history, and in most societies, marriage was more of an economic and political institution. Marriages were arranged to allow for an exchange of economic resources, all too often with the bride as “currency.” Marriages were also often related to political alliances, again the bride used as a way to bring together families, communities, even nations, kingdoms and empires.

Marriage, feminists argue, is a patriarchal creation, a way for men to sequester their women, ensuring that the offspring would be theirs, and theirs alone.

Marriage was, and still is, a tool for defining who “we” are, and of excluding “them.” Rules on whom you could marry were meant to keep the lineage “pure.” You married your own kind, defined by ethnicity, religion, class or caste.

Marriage defined how property, wealth and power were to be shared and used. There was a time, for example, when women in the Philippines could not own property separately from their husbands, or take out a bank loan without their husband’s permission.

Marriage also defined how resources were to be transmitted from one generation to another, and here the cross-cultural variations are tremendous. There are societies where only legitimate children have any rights. Other societies limit inheritance to the sons, and still others only allow eldest sons to get anything.

Not surprisingly, marriage was usually limited to the rich. The poor had no reason to marry since there was no property to divide. The poor weren’t interested either in the debates around divorce, which was mainly a way to divide up property after a marriage had failed.

Marriage ceremonies were limited to the rich, the ceremonies converted into occasions to show off, to display wealth and political power. The pomp and pageantry of that recent royal wedding was in many ways almost nostalgic, a way of displaying Britain’s power, even if it has been much diminished.

Marriages remain largely secular events in many societies, a way to declare a commitment has been made, not just between the spouses but also their families and communities. The religious element came about to give legitimacy to the union, supposedly because the marriage vows are exchanged in front of God or the gods.

I wonder though about how strong that religious element is. In the Philippines, poorer couples simply go into a live-in arrangement. Later, with some money, they would go for a civil wedding, with a small and modest celebration. A few more years might elapse before a religious ceremony, with expectations that the wedding is followed by an elaborate and expensive wedding feast. The wait may take so long that when the time comes, the grandchildren serve as ring-bearers and flower girls.

Marrying for love

So when did people begin to marry for love?

It’s hard to say when exactly. Certainly people have been falling in love since time immemorial, but that did not necessarily lead to marriage because, as I have just described, marriage was often more of a practical institution. Marriages were arranged by families, rather than a couple falling in love.

Marriages for love came with the rise of liberalism, and the idea of individual rights. Urbanization, and young people being able to leave home and live independently, allowed for more of individual decisions.

And as love became more important, marriage vows shifted toward declarations of fidelity and commitment, for better or for worse and all that. Of course, skewed gender relations still shape these vows, Christian marriage ceremonies still having women pledging to obey their husbands. (I hear less and less of this, though, maybe because my women friends are quite independent.)

In the latter part of the last century, marriage rates began to tumble, especially in Western countries. There were those who felt true love didn’t need that piece of paper that came with marriage. Women complained that for all the vows that were taken, men continued to abdicate the many responsibilities involved. Still others weren’t willing to make a commitment for life, wanting more time before taking that plunge, if at all. There were also those who thought that marriage had become too much of a legal formality and that rights and responsibilities could be defined through other arrangements such as civil unions and partnerships.

The declining trend seems to be reversing now. One reason, curiously, comes from the campaigning of lesbians and gay men for the right to marry. Even as civil unions and partnerships were extended to include same-sex couples, the ultimate demand has been for marriage, which is believed to be essential for strengthening bonds of love and commitment. There is something bold and brave about declaring, in front of many people (the whole world, in the case of William and Kate), that two people are ready to stay together for life.

So, maybe marriage isn’t that old-fashioned, at least the kind with love involved. Which was why I seriously considered the request of my former student Rozanno Rufino to let the world (okay, okay, so maybe not the world but Inquirer readers, which comes pretty close) know that today he will ask his girlfriend, Karla Hotchkiss, to marry him. If plans went well, Butch (that’s Rozanno) would have proposed around noon today at the Guia Lighthouse in Macau. Who knows, maybe with Butch on his knees, flowers all around, and Josh Groban singing in the background.

I usually get thesis and dissertation proposals from my students, but this time Butch sent me a draft of his marriage proposal, where he talks about his belief in destiny, of people being made for each other. But there’s more, Butch declares, because the seat of love is human will. Marriage comes into the picture, as a willingness to commit.

It’s an interesting and still romantic angle, where saying yes does not mean “I do,” but “I will.”


click here to view original article

May 2, 2011 - 1 comment.

Hot Orange

We came up with this ring from a client's selection of personal diamonds and an oval citrine she treasured as it was a gift from her late husband. It was a little bit scratched on the top from daily use. But the redesign, resulting in the ring above really gave it new life. Big, masculine and with clean lines. Just as she wanted.

April 13, 2011 - No Comments!

Heart Evangelista for View Magazine

This spread originally came out in the the June-July 2010 issue of View Magazine and I've actually just seen it now. What a great photo of Heart!

This is the ring she wore. Antique square cushion cut yellow sapphire in yellow gold with rhodolite and pink sapphire pave in textured silver on a carved buffalo horn base. Exotic, yes, and space age as well as this was from the Futurism collection a couple years back. One of my favorite pieces.

Many thanks to Samito Jalbuena

Photography by Toto Labrador

March 29, 2011 - No Comments!

Fragments

This is a bespoke project worked together from several old pieces. There really wasn't an even number of diamonds (varying sizes and shapes) to work with so I figured if we couldn't work with the stones, we'd work with the form. And given free reign this is what we came up with. "Fragmented" earrings with princess cut and round diamond pave set in white and textured yellow gold.


"Fragmented" ring with emerald cut diamond center stone, princess cut and round diamonds for sides. Also set in white gold and textured yellow gold. Free-form yet balanced. And not so matchy-matchy.


October 27, 2010 - 1 comment.

Of Skulls and Black Diamonds…

I've always had a fixation with skulls. For the longest time I've been looking for a skull ring or bracelet but have always found designs too kitschy or commercial. Till I met the guys at 13 Lucky Monkey. They do a good job hand carving these rings themselves and casting them to exacting details. I liked this Catherine ring and it sort of ended up like a collaboration piece. I got the skull ring cast in silver. I had the oxidization stripped. Had the eyes filled out in black diamond pave and then electroplated the whole thing in black rhodium to give it that lustrous dark grey finish. Nice and spooky.

But this ring is staying on me till after Halloween and will be part of my appendage soon enough. I think I see another collaboration in sight.

October 7, 2010 - No Comments!

Coming very soon…

My goodness, it's October already?! Been quite busy finishing my new items for this month's Triad II launch. But save the date, 6PM October 22, Firma, Greenbelt 3.

Inset is a ring of multi-colored spinels with diamond pave in rose gold. I like...